In suit making, how to cut the lining to make the suit forming better and more convenient when making it?
Today we'll share four benefits of using a combination of lining examples and dressing seams for wool lining suits!
1. Example of lining
The lining is about 0.2cm smaller than the body piece, and the side piece is 1.5cm smaller than the cutting edge in the area of the hitch, collar, shoulder line and sleeve cage.
The lining piece is smaller than the garment piece, so the adhesive will not stick to the press when it is glued. When sewing the back side seam, the part is gentler.
This method is relatively simple, very widely used, especially for thin clothing, can increase the thin clothing material predecessor of the sense of rigidity. The disadvantage is that after the waist province cut open belly province when you need to pad the process of lining cloth.
The lining is about 0.2cm smaller than the cut of the body, the side pieces are 1.5cm smaller than the cut edge, and the pocket is 0.7cm smaller and notched at the top and bottom.
The advantage of this cut is that when sewing the pocket area, the inlay is processed more gently, and the belly is saved by not having to cut the lining again, but the cutting and gluing process is required to be very precise.
The lining is about 0.2cm smaller than the cut edge of the front piece, the side piece part is about 1.5cm smaller than the side stitching edge, and the barge part is 1.3cm smaller than the front hitching door edge.
This method of cutting allows the thickness of the stop to be thinner and the shape of the stop to be lighter and more graceful after the barge is folded.
The lining is about 0.2cm smaller than the body cut, the side piece is about 1.5cm smaller than the side piece stitching edge, the top and bottom of the pocket are about 0.7cm smaller, and a small piece of lining is dug out, the lining is about 1.3cm smaller than the body (the net sample is also about 0.3cm smaller).
This method is applicable to the case when the front piece is lined with inserts on the door edge, and also requires precise and accurate cutting.
2.Sewing combination type wool lining
Most of the custom-made suits have to be sewn with a combination of wool lining, what is good about the suits made by this process?
Next, we will explain the quality of the suits mainly from the aspect of good performance of the suit lining.
①Good flexibility and elasticity
Combination wool lining is made of animal fiber, which has good flexibility, such as horsetail lining or core hair lining, which has very good resilience.
Therefore, the elasticity of the combined wool lining is very outstanding, which is more conducive to the recovery to the original state of the stretching of the fabric due to the movement of the former of the suit.
The combined wool lining is made of black charcoal lining, hair lining and chest velvet, etc., which is much stiffer than the single-layer bonded lining, and the animal fiber (such as the hair in the black charcoal lining, cow hair, etc.) has better stiffness so that the combined wool lining has a certain stiffness, and plays a proper role in stiffening the front of the suit and the shoulders.
③Reliable dimensional stability
After shaping and resin finishing of the combined molding wool lining, after dry cleaning and washing, the size is more stable, less change, and the shrinkage rate with the fabric can be basically maintained, and the followability is especially good.
The combination of wool lining designed according to the provincial design of the suit, sewn over the front and the piece to form a whole, three-dimensional effect, full and flattering, the fabric maintains its own characteristics, good drapability.
⑤Trusted breathable health care
Although the combination of wool lining by at least three layers of material stacked together sewn together, but because the use of mostly natural fibers, mainly plant and animal fibers, so not stuffy moisture, breathable, while the free formaldehyde content does not exceed 300mg / kg, the human body will not cause significant harm.
In general, the combined wool lining supports the fabric of the suit like the skeleton of the suit, which meets the needs of the predecessor of the suit in terms of stiffness, stretch, fullness, drape and hand feeling.